It took 4 long years to write on Raghurajpur. I visited Raghurajpur first in 2017 and a couple of times later also. But, there was a specific reason why I waited for such a long time. In the meantime, I wrote about so many articles where I instantly visited. But Raghurajpur was an exception. Truly an exception to date. Let me share with you the exact reason. On the same trip, I had a plan to visit Pipili also. I planned to write on Raghurajpur and Pipili back-to-back as I believe these are twin villages. But, due to unknown reasons, the Pipili visit didn’t take place not only in that year but even not in subsequent years also. When finally, I landed Pipili in 2021, then only the circle got completed. I have explored Pipili and now I can write on Raghurajpur. Pipili will follow very soon as per the itinerary. Read “Pipili – Stitching Patches“ if you want to know Pipili. 

For those who are unaware of Raghurajpur, it’s a heritage crafts village (Declared in the Year 2000) famous for its “Patachitra” apart from other traditions. And, for those who already have a fair idea of this artisan village, let’s rewind your memory.

Most we know about Raghurajpur is centered on its artists and their incredible artwork. But, to start with this small village, the best tribute can be by introducing one of the stalwarts of this soil. Legendary Orissa classical dancer Guru Kelucharan Mohapatra was born here in 1926. Till then “Gotipua” (Single Boy in Odia Language) was the traditional dance of Orissa performed over a few centuries. Young boys used to dress up as a woman and offer their prayer in the form of dance to Lord Jagannath & Krishna.

Raghurajpur village was famous for its Gotipua Dance Troupes. Guru Kelucharan also was a part of it. He learned “Mardala” (Similar to Pakhwaj) apart from Tabla and also was a good Patachitra artist. It was Guru Kelucharan who transformed the Odissi dance to its present form by mixing both Gotipua and Mahari (Dance ritual performed by Devadasi at Jagannath Temple) dance concept. His able son Ratikant Mohapatra now carrying the legacy in his setup named “Srjan”. None can forget the Vasant Utsav (Spring Festival) held every year for two days to showcase its dance traditions as well as artistic manifestos.

Raghurajpur has also seen popular Gotipua dancer Sri Maguni Charan Das and Dr. Jagannath Mohapatra, the famous Patachitra artist born in this small village.

Let’s come to the main interest. 

Raghurajpur is famous for its Patachitra. That does not mean you can throw away any single masterpiece of Tussar Painting, Stone/Wood Craving, and Palm Leave Engravings originated from this place. Neither you can take away the credit from West Bengal where you will find different types of Patachitra going on for thousands of years.

Speaking on Patachitra, the tradition of Bengal and Orissa is different in various aspects. There is a long-standing debate where it was started. But, both the States (then a Unified One) have their style of Patachitra. Even GI (Geographical Indication) of Patachitra has been registered under two different names – Orissa Patachitra & Bengal Patachitra same in line with the famous “Rasogolla”. But several things are in common starting from depicting Hindu mythological characters to stories and scenery – both Chitra(s) have been depicted in Pata (or Patta) means Canvas.

Bengal Patachitra

The history of Bengal Patachitra is dated back to its ancient times in places like Midnapur, Jhargram, Burdwan, Kalighat which are still bearing the flag. Bengal Patachitra mainly evolved around mythology with stories from Ramayana, Mahabharata and with characters like Manasa, Kali, Shiva, Krishna, Behula, and Lakhindar. The Pats (Chitrakar) of Kalighat are famous for their precision finish and quality works.

Orissa Patachitra

The Orissa Patachitra was more connected with Lord Jagannath and other mythological characters. When the canvas is a Silk or Tussar cloth, then it is known as “Patta Chitra” whereas the wall paintings are known as “Bhatti Chitra”. In almost every such “Chitra Katha”, you will find the presence of Jagannath, Balaram, Subhadra along with other Hindu God/Goddesses. Raghurajpur is famous for this, but there are other places also like Dharakote, Sonepur, Danda Sahi, Chikiti, Parlakhemundi, and Digapahandi where you will find quality artwork. Also, places like Parlakhemundi, Champamal (Sonepur), Athgarh, and Dinabandhupur (Dhenkanal) are famous for such traditional arts.

Out of all, undoubtedly Raghurajpur is well known for its Pattachitra and those are used under the throne of Lord Jagannath. This Pattachitra is also found on the three chariots during the auspicious Ratha Yatra every year. All the traditional designs and decorations are done by Raghurajpur artisans only. This aft form of Raghurajpur is dated back to the 4th century AD and is passing on from generation to generation. Interestingly, every family has a distinctive signature style and they have maintained it over centuries without any distortion.

The quality and fineness of the work truly can mesmerize any person on the earth. One is bound to be stunned by the minute and acute works done by needles to form a story or picture. The color combinations used in those Pattachitra are truly sparkling and vibrant. There is every reason for Raghurajpur to be proud of its artists of the unique genre.

But if you compare both a Bengali Patachitra and an Orissa Patachitra, then you will be able to find out the difference. Orissa Patachitra is more vibrant and colorful than Bengal one. Bengal uses soothing, soft, and effective color whereas Orissa Patachitra is a colorful one.

Color and Color

That is one of the major reasons for Raghurajpur to come into the limelight. Not only every member of a family in this village are associated with any of such artisan works, but the color combination of Raghurajpur is a distinct one. You can easily identify the Raghurajpur works among so many if you have seen that at least once. Raghurajpur artists use only natural colors in their paintings. They do prepare the colors on their own and use those only. They use five basic colors like Red, Blue, Black, and Yellow apart from White. Color making is a laborious job as it demands lots of patience and perfection.

I was privileged to witness part of White color preparation where conch shells are powdered, boiled, filtered, and dried to get such a majestic white color. Similarly, haritala is used for making Yellow color, Hingula for Red, Ramaraja for Indigo Blue, and Coconut Shell for Black color. Once you prepare these colors, the vibrancy is truly unmatched by the commercial colors available in the market. But, now, due to the unavailability of resources as well as for its time taking process, several artists are leaning towards readymade color. But a large section of artists still prefers to paint using natural colors. Unlike other artists who used to make a wireframe using charcoal or pencil, Raghurajpur artisans are one step ahead. They are enough experts to draw directly using their skills. Once the drawing is done, they used to give a lacquer coating to protect the artwork from damp weather. And for the glossy look, the painting is held over a fireplace or “Chullah” to expose the heat on the back.

Palm Leaf Pattachitra

If you thought, Raghurajpur is only for Patachitra, then you will miss some unique crafts made by the artists. Palm leaf drawing, half-bust sculptures, stuffed birds are some of those.

Palm leaves were used in ancient times also, to write. Although palm leaves are going to be extinct, still the art of writing or engraving on palm leaves is there. The palm leaves are dried after being taken from the tree. Then those are stitched together to make the canvas. Etching is done as per the creativity of the artist and once done, then it becomes a masterpiece. You can easily buy Palm Leaf Patachitra as a bookmark (as I Bought a couple of them) or in case you are not being able to reach Raghurajpur due to any reason, check in with Odisha State Museum at Bhubaneswar where you will find the same to view. Equally, the stone and marble sculptures will draw your attention while passing. The stuffed birds look like the original one and you can’t return in empty hands.

Wall Art

The journey of Raghurajpur will be incomplete without mentioning the earthen or brick walls full of decoration. To me, this adds a serene beauty once you walk through the narrow lane of this small village. Every (Yes, Every) house wall is colorful and depicting either from mythology or images of animals and birds. All the houses are decorated with illustrations that add a special value to the entire texture.

The outside walls of the rooms are well designed and give a new look in every step. Walls seem alive with the color combination applied and some people use tribal art to decorate the same. God / Goddesses, Animals, Sceneries are nicely articulated in those shabby walls to give a completely new look. The use of colors is also an art to learn. Each color is so meticulously given that it can’t be better than that. Lasts week only, Hon’ble CM of Odisha has granted a lump sum to each house for designing their wall. Amidst lockdown, there will be some smiling faces at least.

Why I come here?

The identical rows on both sides divided by a set of houses in the middle is its beauty. Around 100 houses will be ready to welcome you. You can enter into everyone’s and view the master crafts made by them.

Almost all adult members of a family are the artist here. Walls do come alive due to the murals. The entire inspiration comes from Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra & Subhadra. Every house is a studio. Every family member is an artist. 

How to Reach?

To close with, let’s check how you can reach this small village, Raghurajpur. It is located only 14 km away from Puri, one of the famous Hindu pilgrimage towns. This place is well connected from the Puri – Bhubaneswar Road and is situated on the southern banks of the River Bhargavi. The nearest railway station and locality are Chandanpur from which one can easily find Raghurajpur in only 10 minutes. One can hire a cab or auto also from Puri to visit this place and can come back accordingly on the same day.

I’m going to Raghurajpur once again very soon. Will You?

 

© Saikat Gupta

Image(s) Source: Self